Man'yōshū · Nara Period · ca. 750

Snow Falls Yet Spring Arrives: Mountain Poetry from 750 CE

甲斐の嶺ろ雪は降りつつしかすがに霞たなびく春は来にけり

Kai no nero / yuki wa furitsutsu / shikasuga ni / kasumi tanabiku / haru wa kinikeri

On Kai's mountain peaks, snow still falls— yet see how mist drifts softly across the slopes: spring has truly come.

— Anonymous (作者不詳)

About the Poet

This poem comes from an anonymous poet of the Nara period (710-794 CE), preserved in the Man'yōshū, Japan's oldest surviving poetry anthology compiled around 759 CE. The Man'yōshū contains over 4,500 poems from emperors to common soldiers, making it a democratic treasure of early Japanese literature. This particular verse belongs to the Azuma-uta or 'Eastern Songs' section, featuring folk poetry from Japan's eastern provinces. The unknown author likely lived in or traveled through Kai Province (modern Yamanashi), demonstrating intimate knowledge of the region's dramatic mountain scenery. During the Nara period, these eastern territories were considered frontier lands, and their poetry captured a raw, unpolished beauty distinct from the refined court verse of the capital. For travelers today, this anonymity adds mystique—imagine an ancient farmer, merchant, or traveler pausing to compose these lines while gazing at snow-capped peaks. The poem survives as testimony to how deeply ordinary people connected with Japan's natural landscapes over 1,200 years ago.

Kai Province (Yamanashi), Yamanashi

Yamanashi Prefecture, once Kai Province, offers travelers breathtaking views of Mount Fuji and the Japanese Southern Alps. This mountainous region northwest of Tokyo remains surprisingly accessible yet wonderfully uncrowded. Visit in spring (March-May) to witness the magical transition this poem captures—lingering snow on peaks while cherry blossoms bloom below. The Fuji Five Lakes area provides iconic Fuji views, while Shosenkyo Gorge offers dramatic cliff scenery. Wine enthusiasts will discover Japan's premier wine country around Katsunuma. Stay in traditional ryokan with mountain views, particularly around Isawa Onsen. The Chuo Line from Shinjuku reaches Kofu in under two hours. Don't miss the ancient Takeda Shrine ruins for spring mist and mountain panoramas that echo this 8th-century poem perfectly.

Understanding the Poem

This Nara-period verse masterfully captures the liminal moment between winter and spring—a transition deeply meaningful in Japanese aesthetics. The poet employs 'shikasuga ni' (nevertheless/even so), a pivot word that creates tension between opposing forces: persistent winter snow and arriving spring mist. This isn't mere weather observation but a meditation on impermanence and renewal. The kasumi (spring mist) serves as definitive proof of spring's arrival, despite contradictory evidence of falling snow. For Japanese readers, this paradox embodies 'mono no aware'—the bittersweet awareness of change. The mountains of Kai become a stage for cosmic seasonal drama. The declarative ending 'haru wa kinikeri' (spring has indeed come!) resolves the tension with quiet triumph. This poem teaches us to recognize spring not by winter's absence, but by spring's subtle presence—a profoundly optimistic perspective on change and renewal.