An Envoy's Heartache: Miyajima, 736 CE
About the Poet
This poem was composed by an anonymous member of the diplomatic mission to Silla (Korean peninsula) dispatched in 736 CE during the Nara period (710-794). These envoys, known as 'Ken-Shiragi-shi,' undertook perilous sea voyages representing the Yamato court. The Man'yōshū preserves numerous poems from this particular mission, offering rare glimpses into the emotional lives of ancient Japanese travelers. Unlike modern tourists, these diplomats faced genuine dangers and separation lasting months or years. Their poetry reveals profound homesickness—a sentiment that resonates across centuries. The Silla missions strengthened Japan's continental connections during an era when the capital at Nara was absorbing Chinese and Korean cultural influences. That this anonymous voice still speaks to us today demonstrates the Man'yōshū's democratic spirit: it preserved poetry from all social ranks, not just aristocrats. For visitors to Miyajima, this poem offers a powerful connection to those ancient mariners who once passed these same sacred shores.
Itsukushima (Miyajima), Hiroshima
Itsukushima, known worldwide as Miyajima (Shrine Island), rises from the Seto Inland Sea near Hiroshima. Its iconic vermillion torii gate, seemingly floating at high tide, has become synonymous with Japan itself. The island's Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has been sacred since ancient times—the entire island was considered so holy that commoners couldn't set foot on it. Summer brings humid warmth and vibrant festivals, including the Kangensai music festival in June. The forested Mount Misen offers hiking trails with panoramic sea views. Friendly deer roam freely near the shrine. Arrive early morning or stay overnight to experience the island without crowds. The ferry from Miyajimaguchi takes just 10 minutes. Don't miss the local specialty: grilled momiji manju (maple-leaf cakes) and fresh oysters in season.
Understanding the Poem
This poem captures the profound Japanese emotion of 'bōkyō'—homesickness or capital-longing—experienced by an envoy sailing past Miyajima en route to Korea. The structure follows the classic Man'yōshū pattern of place-naming ('Aki no umi') grounding emotion in geography. As the boat navigates the intricate coastline ('shima no urawami'), each stroke of the oar paradoxically pulls the poet farther from home while intensifying his longing. The verb 'masaru' (to increase) conveys emotion as a crescendo rather than static state. The questioning particle 'kamo' adds poignant uncertainty—will this yearning ever find relief? For ancient readers, 'miyako' (capital) meant Nara, the cultural heart of civilization. This wasn't mere sentimentality; diplomatic missions were genuinely dangerous, with shipwrecks common. The poem transforms private suffering into universal art, allowing modern visitors to connect with travelers who passed these same waters thirteen centuries ago.
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