A Diplomat's Secret Farewell Poem | Tomonoura, 736 CE
About the Poet
This poem was composed by an anonymous member of the diplomatic mission sent to the Korean kingdom of Silla in 736 CE. These envoys, known as 'Kenshi-ragi-shi' (遣新羅使), were government officials, scholars, and attendants who undertook the perilous sea voyage across the Seto Inland Sea and beyond. The Man'yōshū preserves over 140 poems from this particular mission, offering rare glimpses into the emotional lives of ordinary travelers during the Nara period (710-794). Unlike aristocratic court poets, these anonymous voices captured the raw homesickness and uncertainty of leaving Japan's shores. The envoys would stop at various ports along the Inland Sea, including Tomonoura, awaiting favorable winds. Their poetry reflects not literary ambition but genuine human feeling—the ache of separation from family, the anxiety of the unknown journey ahead. For modern travelers, these poems transform Tomonoura from a scenic port into a place where ancient footsteps still echo with universal emotions of longing and departure.
Tomonoura (鞆の浦), Seto Inland Sea, Hiroshima
Tomonoura is a remarkably preserved Edo-period port town on Hiroshima Prefecture's southern coast, where the Seto Inland Sea's tides converge. This natural harbor has welcomed sailors for over 1,000 years, and its atmospheric streets of traditional machiya houses, stone walls, and historic lighthouse (Jōyatō) inspired Studio Ghibli's 'Ponyo.' Visit in spring when cherry blossoms frame the harbor, or autumn for golden light on calm waters. Don't miss the Taichōrō guest hall at Fukuzen-ji Temple, offering the view Korean envoys called 'the most beautiful in Japan.' The pace is gloriously slow—wander narrow lanes, sample tai (sea bream) cuisine, and watch fishing boats bob at sunset. From Hiroshima, take the train to Fukuyama then bus to Tomo (90 minutes total). Stay overnight to experience the magical twilight atmosphere that moved ancient poets to verse.
Understanding the Poem
This poem masterfully employs a pillow-word (makurakotoba) technique, where 'tomoshibi no' (torchlight) leads into 'Tomo' through sound association, creating poetic wordplay between light and place. The envoy stands on rocky shores at dusk, watching torches flicker as his ship prepares for the dangerous voyage to Korea. The phrase 'kokoro mo shino ni' evokes grass bending under weight—his heart physically heavy with emotion. This is 'mono no aware' in its rawest form: the bittersweet awareness that beauty and sorrow intertwine. The uncertain 'kamo' ending (expressing wonder or doubt) suggests the poet cannot fully comprehend the depth of his own feelings. For Nara-period Japanese, crossing the sea meant possible death; this poem captures that liminal moment between homeland and unknown, between torch-lit safety and dark waters. The imagery speaks across centuries to anyone who has stood at a departure point, heart full of wordless longing.
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