Hokkaido Kiko · Meiji Period · ca. 1900

Walking Forever Toward a Mountain: Hokkaido Wilderness, 1900

えぞ富士の高嶺はるかに仰ぎつつ行けども行けど原野つづけり

Ezo Fuji no / takane haruka ni / aogi tsutsu / yukedo mo yukedo / genya tsudzukeri

Gazing up at Ezo Fuji's distant peak, I walk and walk and walk— yet the endless plains stretch on forever

— Omachi Keigetsu (大町桂月)

About the Poet

Omachi Keigetsu (1869-1925) was a celebrated Meiji-era poet, essayist, and travel writer whose vivid accounts helped shape how modern Japanese viewed their own landscape. Born in Kochi Prefecture on Shikoku, he studied under the great haiku reformer Masaoka Shiki before developing his own distinctive voice blending classical forms with modern sensibilities. Keigetsu became famous for his ambitious journeys throughout Japan, including extensive travels through Hokkaido when it was still a rugged frontier. His 'Hokkaido Kiko' (Hokkaido Travelogue) captured the raw, untamed beauty of Japan's northern island at a time when few literary figures ventured there. Unlike the refined landscapes of Kyoto or Nara celebrated in classical poetry, Keigetsu embraced Hokkaido's wilderness as sublime and worthy of verse. His writings influenced generations of nature enthusiasts and helped establish Hokkaido as a destination for those seeking Japan's last great wilderness. For today's travelers, Keigetsu's works offer a window into how early modern Japanese first encountered landscapes that remain remarkably unchanged.

Mt. Yōtei (Ezo Fuji), Shiribeshi, Hokkaido

Mt. Yōtei, affectionately called 'Ezo Fuji' for its striking resemblance to Japan's most famous peak, rises 1,898 meters above Hokkaido's Shiribeshi region. This perfectly symmetrical stratovolcano dominates the landscape around Niseko, offering dramatic views from every angle. Summer transforms the mountain into a hiker's paradise, with wildflowers blanketing alpine meadows and the challenging summit trail rewarding climbers with panoramic views of the surrounding plains Keigetsu described. The vast agricultural flatlands stretching from the mountain's base remain remarkably similar to what Meiji-era travelers witnessed—potato fields, asparagus farms, and endless green horizons. Visit June through September for hiking, or experience the atmospheric morning mists that make the mountain appear to float above the plains. The nearby Niseko area offers excellent accommodation, hot springs, and farm-to-table dining featuring local produce.

Understanding the Poem

This poem masterfully captures the overwhelming scale of Hokkaido's landscape through repetition and contrast. The phrase 'yukedo mo yukedo' (walking and walking) creates a hypnotic rhythm that mirrors the endless journey itself, while the distant mountain peak remains perpetually unreachable despite the traveler's progress. Keigetsu employs a technique called 'hedatari' (distance/separation), emphasizing the gap between human aspiration and nature's immensity. The choice to call the mountain 'Ezo Fuji' connects Hokkaido's wilderness to Japan's sacred geography while acknowledging its distinct, frontier identity. For Meiji-era readers, this poem evoked both the excitement of Japan's northern expansion and a humbling recognition of nature's power. The emotional core is 'mono no aware'—a bittersweet awareness of impermanence and human smallness against eternal landscapes.