Japan's Most Famous City Poem: Nara in Full Bloom, 730 CE

About the Poet

Ono no Oyu (dates uncertain, active ca. 720-740 CE) was a distinguished court official and poet of the Nara period who served in the imperial government during the reign of Emperor Shōmu. Rising to the position of Dazai no Shōni (Vice-Governor of Dazaifu) in Kyushu, he was stationed far from the capital when he composed this famous poem, expressing his longing and admiration for Nara from afar. This geographical distance likely intensified the emotional power of his verse, transforming it into one of the most celebrated descriptions of Heijō-kyō ever written. The poem became so iconic that the phrase 'aoniyoshi'—literally meaning 'where blue-green earth is beautiful'—became the standard poetic epithet (makurakotoba) for Nara, still used today. Ono no Oyu's work appears in the Man'yōshū, Japan's oldest poetry anthology, cementing his place in literary history. For travelers to Nara, his poem offers a window into how Japan's ancient capital was perceived at its zenith—a city so magnificent it could only be compared to flowers at the height of bloom.

Nara Capital (Heijō-kyō), Nara

Heijō-kyō, today's Nara city center, was Japan's first permanent capital (710-784 CE), modeled on China's Chang'an. The Heijō Palace Site now spreads as a vast archaeological park where visitors can walk among reconstructed vermillion gates and the imposing Daigokuden throne hall. Cherry trees line the ancient thoroughfares each spring, recreating the floral splendor Ono no Oyu praised. Nearby, Tōdai-ji's Great Buddha and the sacred deer of Nara Park offer glimpses of 8th-century grandeur. Visit in early April when cherry blossoms transform the palace grounds, or autumn for golden ginkgo leaves against ancient architecture. The site is easily reached by bus from JR Nara Station. Morning visits offer peaceful contemplation; sunset paints the reconstructed buildings in the warm light that once greeted courtiers.

Understanding the Poem

This poem stands as perhaps the most famous celebration of Nara's golden age. The opening 'aoniyoshi' is a makurakotoba—a pillow word or poetic epithet—that became permanently associated with Nara, evoking the lush green hills surrounding the capital. The central metaphor compares the city's prosperity to flowers at peak bloom, a powerful image suggesting both supreme beauty and implicit transience (though the poem emphasizes glory rather than decay). Written while the poet was stationed in distant Kyushu, the verse carries undertones of nostalgia and longing. The word 'niou' (to be fragrant/radiant) suggests both visual beauty and intoxicating scent, creating a synesthetic experience. For 8th-century readers, this poem captured national pride in their sophisticated capital; for modern visitors, it offers an authentic ancient perspective on Nara's magnificence—proof that the city's beauty has moved hearts for over 1,300 years.

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