Man'yōshū · Asuka–Nara Period · ca. 690

When Gods Get Lonely: Japan's Abandoned Capital, 690 CE

ささなみの国つ御神のうらさびて荒れたる都見れば悲しも

Sasanami no / kunitsu mikami no / urasabite / aretaru miyako / mireba kanashi mo

Even the gods of Sasanami's shores grow lonely in their neglect— this ruined capital, how it breaks my heart

— Kakinomoto no Hitomaro (柿本人麻呂)

About the Poet

Kakinomoto no Hitomaro (c. 660–720 CE) stands as Japan's most revered classical poet, often called the 'Saint of Poetry.' Active during the late Asuka period, he served as a court poet under Empress Jitō and Emperor Monmu, witnessing pivotal moments in Japanese history including the abandonment of the Ōmi capital. Unlike later aristocratic poets, Hitomaro traveled extensively, composing elegies for imperial figures and laments for ordinary people alike. His works in the Man'yōshū—Japan's oldest poetry anthology—number over 400 poems, displaying unmatched emotional depth and innovative technique. He pioneered the extended elegy form (banka) and perfected the use of 'pillow words' (makurakotoba). Travelers to Shiga Prefecture can visit sites associated with his famous Ōmi poems, while Nara Prefecture's Asuka region preserves the world he documented. His influence shaped Japanese poetry for over a millennium, and he remains studied in every Japanese school today.

Ōtsu (Former Ōmi Capital), Shiga

Ōtsu, capital of Shiga Prefecture on Lake Biwa's southwestern shore, once briefly served as Japan's imperial capital (667–672 CE) under Emperor Tenji. Today, travelers discover layers of history amid modern convenience. Visit Miidera Temple, founded in 672 CE, with its famous bell and stunning lake views. The Ōmi Shrine honors Emperor Tenji and features beautiful autumn foliage. Walk along the Biwa Lake Canal, cherry blossom-lined in spring. The Former Ōmi Capital ruins in nearby Ōtsu offer contemplative walks where Hitomaro once mourned. Best visited in spring for cherry blossoms or autumn for momiji, Ōtsu provides easy access from Kyoto (just 10 minutes by JR train) while offering serene lakeside atmosphere away from crowds. Don't miss local specialties: funazushi (aged carp sushi) and Ōmi beef.

Understanding the Poem

This elegy, composed around 690 CE, mourns the abandoned Ōmi capital, which had served as Japan's seat of power for just five years before being deserted after political upheaval. Hitomaro employs the pillow-word 'Sasanami' (rippling waves), forever linking this place to Lake Biwa's gentle waters. The poem's genius lies in attributing loneliness not to humans but to the local Shinto deities themselves—even gods feel abandoned when their shrines fall into disuse. This theological dimension elevates personal grief to cosmic significance. The final exclamation 'kanashi mo' (how sad!) breaks poetic convention with raw emotional directness. The poem embodies 'mono no aware'—the pathos of impermanence—eight centuries before the concept was formally articulated. For Hitomaro, ruins spoke not of failure but of time's inexorable passage, a theme that would define Japanese aesthetics forever after.