Man'yōshū · Asuka–Nara Period · ca. 690

Waiting for Boats That Never Return: Lake Biwa, 690 CE

ささなみの志賀の辛崎幸くあれど大宮人の船待ちかねつ

Sasanami no / Shiga no Karasaki / saiku aredo / ōmiyabito no / fune machi kanetsu

Though Karasaki of Shiga still stands unchanged, where gentle waves lap at the shore— I wait in vain for the courtiers' boats that will never return.

— Kakinomoto no Hitomaro (柿本人麻呂)

About the Poet

Kakinomoto no Hitomaro (c. 660–720 CE) stands as the most revered poet of ancient Japan, often called the 'Saint of Poetry.' Active during the late Asuka and early Nara periods, he served as a court poet under Empress Jitō and Emperor Monmu. Unlike aristocratic poets of his era, Hitomaro's origins remain humble and mysterious, yet his genius elevated him to legendary status. He traveled extensively throughout Japan, composing elegies for imperial family members, celebrating military expeditions, and lamenting the impermanence of glory. His deep connection to the Ōmi region, particularly around Lake Biwa, produced some of his most haunting verses. This poem mourns the abandoned Ōmi Palace, where Emperor Tenji once held court before the capital moved to Nara. Hitomaro's work in the Man'yōshū (30 long poems and 40 short poems attributed to him) established the emotional and technical foundations of Japanese poetry. For travelers, visiting Karasaki connects you directly to the landscapes that inspired Japan's greatest classical poet.

Karasaki (Otsu City), Shiga

Karasaki, on the southwestern shore of Lake Biwa in Ōtsu City, Shiga Prefecture, offers travelers a glimpse into Japan's poetic heartland. Famous for its ancient pine tree—one of the 'Eight Views of Ōmi'—the area has inspired artists and poets for over a millennium. The Karasaki Pine, though replanted, continues the legacy of its predecessors that sheltered travelers and witnessed imperial boats crossing the lake. Visit in spring when cherry blossoms frame the lakeshore, or autumn for spectacular sunset views across Japan's largest lake. The nearby Ōmi Shrine and ruins of the Ōmi Palace connect visitors to the era when this region served as Japan's capital. Just 20 minutes from Kyoto by train, Karasaki offers peaceful lakeside walks far from tourist crowds. Don't miss the evening light painting the water gold—the same view Hitomaro immortalized 1,300 years ago.

Understanding the Poem

This elegy mourns the abandoned Ōmi Palace, where Emperor Tenji ruled before the capital's relocation. Hitomaro employs 'sasanami' (rippling waves), a pillow word traditionally associated with Shiga, creating immediate geographic and emotional grounding. The poem's power lies in its tension between permanence and loss: Karasaki's shore remains 'fortunate' and unchanged, yet the courtiers who once filled it with life have vanished forever. The waiting—'machi kanetsu'—suggests both literal anticipation and the impossibility of return. This captures 'mono no aware,' the Japanese aesthetic of bittersweet impermanence. For Hitomaro's contemporary audience, the Ōmi Palace's abandonment was recent history, making this poem both political commentary and profound meditation on how quickly glory fades. The empty shore where boats once gathered becomes a powerful symbol of civilizations passing while nature endures.