Hyakunin Isshu · Heian Period · ca. 900

Where All Travelers Meet: A Blind Poet's 1100-Year-Old Wisdom

これやこの行くも帰るも別れては知るも知らぬも逢坂の関

kore ya kono / yuku mo kaeru mo / wakarete wa / shiru mo shiranu mo / Ōsaka no seki

So this is the place— where travelers meet and part, strangers and friends alike passing through Ōsaka's gate

— Semimaru (蝉丸)

About the Poet

Semimaru (dates unknown, active ca. 900 CE) remains one of Japanese literature's most enigmatic figures. According to legend, he was a blind biwa (lute) player who lived in a humble hut near the Ōsaka Barrier, the famous checkpoint between Kyoto and the eastern provinces. Some traditions claim he was an imperial prince who chose a life of seclusion; others say he was born blind and became a wandering musician. His very name, meaning 'cicada,' evokes the ephemeral nature of sound and life. Despite—or perhaps because of—his mysterious origins, Semimaru became a patron saint of biwa players and the blind. His single poem in the Hyakunin Isshu captures the essence of the barrier as a liminal space where all human journeys intersect. The Noh play 'Semimaru' by Zeami dramatizes his tragic story. Today, Semimaru Shrine near the former barrier site honors his memory, making it a poignant pilgrimage for lovers of classical Japanese arts.

Ōsaka Barrier (Otsu City), Shiga

The Ōsaka Barrier (逢坂関) once stood at the mountain pass between Kyoto and Ōtsu City in Shiga Prefecture—not to be confused with modern Osaka city. This ancient checkpoint was where travelers heading east toward the Tōkaidō road would pause, making it a symbol of journeys, meetings, and farewells in classical poetry. Today, visitors can find Sekisemi Shrine and Semimaru Shrine near Ōtsu Station, honoring the legendary poet. The area offers stunning views of Lake Biwa, Japan's largest lake, just minutes away. Visit in autumn for spectacular foliage along the old Tōkaidō road, or spring for cherry blossoms. The Keihan or JR lines from Kyoto reach Ōtsu in just 10 minutes, making it an easy day trip to explore this gateway between ancient capital and eastern Japan.

Understanding the Poem

Semimaru's poem transforms a mundane checkpoint into a profound meditation on human connection and impermanence. The opening 'kore ya kono' ('So this is it!') expresses wonder at finally seeing this famous place. The parallel structure—'going and returning,' 'known and unknown'—creates a sense of universal human experience flowing through this single point. The Ōsaka Barrier becomes a metaphor for life itself: a place where all paths cross, where strangers brush past future friends, where every meeting contains the seed of parting. The word 'Ōsaka' itself contains 'au' (to meet), adding poetic resonance. This reflects the Japanese concept of 'ichigo ichie'—each encounter is once in a lifetime. For a blind poet living beside the barrier, hearing countless footsteps pass daily, this observation carries special poignancy: connection through sound rather than sight, sensing humanity's endless flow.